Today was better than yesterday by a measure of leagues. Is that a phrase I can use? I had a very big beer at dinner and it seems like that’s a fine sentence. Anyway, Anna and I both woke up feeling much better and we had a bit of a sleep in and then another breakfast at Doutor. Then we went to Harajuku again.
It was instantly nicer, quieter and less loud all round. We went to Bic Camera and I used my google translate to ask about three into two prong plug converters again. This time I was able to purchase one! Very exciting all round.
We headed then to the Mame Shiba cafe, and booked a time for about an hour later. In that time, something truly magical happened. I found gorgeous boots that fit me, in Harajuku. Look at these glorious beasts:
Unfortunately this meant we had to carry them for the rest of the day but BOOTS! ❤ ❤
also Anna became a Sanrio character, as she was always supposed to be and we went to Kiddy Land which is a multi-storey toy shop. Kiddy Land may have been a mistake as we went a bit too far from the Shiba cafe and were a bit late back but it all worked out all right.
The mameshiba cafe is a newish addition to Takeshita St and is quite busy as a result. You’re only allowed a half hour with the doggos.
The Mameshiba cafe is called that because all the dogs are the Mameshiba breed: smaller than regular Shiba Inu. They’re very cute, and all seem pretty chilled out about the whole situation. The room is a tatami floored space with high shelves for your bags to keep them out of the dog’s way. There’s lots of low tables and one shiba was having a nice nap under there when we came out.
The dogs were active, investigating everyone, having scraps with each other, pursuing a particularly in demand pink rubber bone and accepting pats. I made particular friends with a little black one who let me rub his jaw and then promptly rested his face in my hand and went back to sleep with me supporting the weight of his head. I nearly died from the cuteness.
In lieu of lunch we had the Harajuku special, gigantic rainbow candyfloss. Last time we tried this we only got the three colours, aka small. Yesterday I lost my head and went for the large five colour option. It was really, really good. Each colour is a distinctive flavour, and the purple grape and green melon were particularly tasty. It was just… a lot of sugar. We probably should have had an actual lunch.
Then we were back on the Yamanote line to get to Nippori Textile Town, which is a part of Tokyo with a whole lot of fabric stores. I’ve been wanting to go fabric shopping in Japan since my first visit in 2012 but it’s always been an easy thing to put off. Not this time! I was determined.
Nippori is a fair distance from our usual stomping grounds of Shinjuku and Harajuku, it was on the direct opposite side of the Yamanote loop which meant about a half hour train ride. However once you arrive in Nippori it’s very easy to track down the fabric stores.
I’d done my research and I knew which shop I wanted: a massive store called Tomato, which as it turns out, is over five different locations on the same street. We looked in a couple of them, whole stores dedicated to braids and notions and buttons, or just knit fabrics, or just fancy brocades, and went to the big five storey one with patchwork fabrics on the top two floors. Hooooo boy.
The top floor had the generic patchwork fabric, similar to the kinds of things I can get back home, lots of US imports. They had fat quarters for 150 yen which is just a bit over $2NZ, back home a fat quarter would generally be $5-7 unless on sale. So I grabbed a few, and some special shiny fabric Japanese ones with Shiba inus and such on them.
The fourth floor was racks and racks of gorgeousness, and Anna obligingly offered to carry the bolts I picked out for me as I chose. I picked up a lot of lovely Japanese prints and some character stuff as well. It turned out the character stuff was on sale, so I could have picked more pikachus maybe… but I can get pikachu fabric back home so I didn’t. All up it was quite a haul and heavy to bring back on the train.
We went straight for dinner instead of going back to the hotel, dumping shopping and going out again (it just seemed easier to get it all done, plus we were both hungry from missing lunch.) Anna had researched some good nearby sushi places, the first one we tried was under renovations but the second one was open (Itamae sushi) and had tables free. I had a massive beer, Anna got her first plum wine of the trip and we had some exceptional food. I had the salmon, crab and minced raw fish bowl and Anna had one of the nigiri platters. We also got salad, octopus and prawn miso. It was freaking delicious.
Then we went back to the hotel room and crashed out. It was a very good day.